Nothing like writing about white sandy beaches and sunsets when you’re watching a blizzard of white shit dumping snow by the foot from the sky now is there? Sheee-it!
St. Croix or Crotch – Right from the starting gate, the oddest things happened when I boarded the final puddle jumper from San Juan to St. Croix. First, there was an actual gridlock of wheelchairs lined up to get on the plane, and I didn’t know what the hell to make of that. It turns out the seniors use this tactic to be the first on the flight and the first off. They were perfectly spry little old people gathering their luggage and sprinting to the curb for their pick up! The second thing I noted was all eyes on me. The white woman. When I say all eyes, I mean the Cruzan’s have mastered the evil eye and that continued throughout the entire week wherever I went.
Wake up calls – Morning alarm is roosters. Roosters that roam the entire island. Brought over from Puerto Rico years ago for cock-fighting, these feral birds strut in packs and cock-a-doodle-do starting at the crack ass of dawn and continue til nightfall and beyond. Most islanders try not to poison or rid them because some of the destitute in the projects use them as a food source although the meat is stringy and tough due being feral and eating garbage unlike the $12.99 per pound Bell & Evans chickens who are organically fed and tender as a scrambled egg.
“The Stare” – Around mid-week of my stay, I finally asked my daughter and her boyfriend, “What the hell is with the evil eye stare?” No matter if we were in the car, the Cruzan’s just burn through your soul with that stare. Thankfully, I’ve got some of the Italian gene in me and can give the, “You’re dead to me” stare too so I just started doing it right back. Hell, I couldn’t help but stare at some of the Rasta’s with their dredlocked dingleberry balls hanging from their chin beards. I ask, does one shampoo the crumbs and food out of that thing ever or does it just morph into a green afro of sorts like food left too long in the fridge?
Laws on the Island – From what I saw, this depends on the day, your color, and what applies to some doesn’t necessarily apply to others. I’m also pretty sure it’s all who you know. So, same as here in the States.
Welfare – Also no different from here. Although there are “FREE” condom dispensers in public bathrooms, babies continue to have babies and live off the system.
Driving – You can own and operate a car all without a driver’s license. Probably not legally, but driving is a totally twisted adventure on this island, and forget the fact they drive on the opposite side than the U.S. Fun fact: You know when the driver is sober because they have to weave all over the road to dodge the gargantuan potholes that can take out a tire and rim per week. When drunk, they drive perfectly straight.
The Cruzan hooligans also believe everyone wants to hear their bass “Fuck-Shit-Bitch” music so their pimped out Honda Civics are equipped with outward facing speaker systems that replace both back windows. I was totally entertained by these pimped-high decibel cars, and didn’t find them even a fraction as disturbing as the Mr. Softee pedophile ice cream truck that drives past my house at 4:00 every day of the summer playing that creepy “come little children” tune. It’s also not uncommon to see the Cruzan cowboys and cowgirls on the streets riding bareback to take their horses for a swim. An awestruck sight to see.

An entire flatbed truck can be filled with toddlers and small children and no seat belts, but the police will pass you and yell over the speaker, “Ma’am, please put your foot back in the vehicle. Thank you,” as I witnessed firsthand.
Voting Rights – The residents of the U.S. Virgin Islands have none. The way they figure it as was told to me, “It’s our problem since we vote for an asshole,” and apparently we did. The end. St. Croix is just pretty waterfront property owned by the U.S.
Crime – As far as I’m concerned, I think the U.S.V.I. receives a bad rap. The U.S.V.I. was deemed as a dangerous stop for cruise ship a few years ago, but just as it is here in the States or anywhere else for that matter, you can’t have good without bad and I met some truly wonderful people. Their lifestyle is definitely laid back and you should prepare to have a 2 hour lunch or a 3 hour dinner. They don’t have the wherewithal to cave to the neediness of the frenetic, instant-gratification-needed tourists. If you’re respectful, kind, and patient (which they’ll surely note and appreciate), you’ll receive extra bread, a drink on the house, even an upgraded room when your toilet is leaking in your hotel room as I did. Prior to leaving Sandcastles in Frederiksted, I was hugged and bid farewell by the lovely women who scrubbed and washed the tile pathway outside my door each morning, the young man who set up the beach chairs and umbrellas, and the sweet soul who cleaned my room each day. Lesson is simple – Be mindful and don’t be a prick.
Unfortunately, I was also witness to tourists who were rude, made disparaging remarks, and talked down to servers. They received a well deserving mirror of their behavior. That’s how it works in life.
Hovensa oil refinery – Driving through the abandoned 1,500 acre refinery was like driving through a graveyard. It’s nothing less than a catastrophe, and the U.S. Government deems St. Croix as a monopoly property and give it as much regard as a billionaire does towards one of their multiple vacation properties. I was told the oil refinery was contracted until 2022, but shut down all their refining and processing operations leaving approximately 30,000 unemployed in February 2012. The plant had been one of the region’s largest oil refiners not to mention the 1,500 acres with rusted abandoned tanks and piping and probable environmental leaks. This site has the potential of storing 13 million barrels of crude oil. Something very, very wrong with this picture.
Shopping – There’s the “Cruzan” price and then there’s the “Tourist” price…naturally the tourist price is higher because as far as the Cruzan’s are concerned, we tourists all have deep pockets. There’s a Kmart as well. Oh, the bargains there….one side of the display reads, “SALE $15.99” and the other side displays the regular price at $12.99. You figure it out.
Thanks to my daughter, I did find my ghetto store though….the Burlington Coat Factory of the Island. It’s called Marianne’s and where I purchased $5 and $7 clothing items – because finding disposable clothes is my true addiction, second only to alcohol consumption. Speaking of which…..
Cruzan rum – A distillery founded in 1760 in St. Croix USVI and is “the most honored rum distillery in the world.” Although the rum is produced in St. Croix, it is sent to Kentucky for distributing and then is shipped back to St. Croix for sale. Makes perfect sense right? Nothing makes sense here.
We also drove past the Captain Morgan distillery which is powered by solar panels. The field of solar panels was an incredible sight. I understand they have a rockin’ tasting tour as well that I’ll hit up on my next go ’round for sure.
The Devil’s lettuce – a staple item for Cruzans. Take a wild guess what I’m referring to. It’s definitely growing in random areas because when you’re driving around, all of a sudden you get a wiff of the skunk-like THC from the marry-jee-wanna plants. You’ll also see plenty of helicopters keeping an eye out for these “High Life Field of Dreams.”
Street Zombies – From time to time, you’ll see these homeless-types slouched against a building, collapsed in front of a parked car. Legend has it, they ate the devil root – a plant that grows in the bush.
Chaney – Beautiful shards of china that can be found snorkeling or when you’re hunched down long enough on the shoreline grabbing between breaks in the waves. The word “Chaney” was made up by the local children who would smooth and round the edges of these shards to use as play money combining the word “china” and “money” forever to be known now as “Chaney.” Some of these pieces are worth a lot of money and locals have made them into jewelry. Chaney is a true treasure find and can date back as far as the 1700’s unlike sea glass which has now become more of a manufactured item. Since people have become environmentally conscious and stopped throwing glass overboard, there is less and less authentic sea glass.
I arrived with the spirit of exploration and left 100% intact taking home only appreciation, knowledge, and beautiful images of St. Croix. Out of the islands I’ve been (Aruba, Jamaica, Bermuda, Bahamas, Puerto Rico Cozumel, Mexico, St. Thomas, St. Maarten, Belize and the ones I’ve forgotten about), St. Croix has been the most beautiful and magical by far. This island has so much to offer in: Culture, history, magnificent beaches, Caribbean waters, Moko Jumbie rain forest spirits, and Point Udall, the most Eastern point of the United States. If you catch the sunrise on January 1st at Point Udall, you are the first to see it in all of the U.S. for the New Year. It’s considered a very spiritual experience by the natives.
Cheers to St. Croix and all its quirkiness that befits my personality, and I look forward to witnessing another “green flash” of one its spectacular sunsets some day soon.
A special thanks to my daughter, Johnnie Angel, and the Freedom City Surf Family who treated me with open hearts and such graciousness as hosts.
Next up, Freedom City Surf & Beach Grille. Like an Italian kitchen in Little Italy, you’ll get what Mama’s serving up that day and you WILL EAT IT & I GUARANTEE YOU WILL LOVE IT. As a good Italian Mother, there is always something for everyone…..even that pain-in-the-ass finicky brat of the family. To be continued……

